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Jeep Wrangler Stock Tire Size, Your Top 4×4 And Off-Road Tech Questions Answered Here

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Jeep Wrangler Stock Tire Size, Your Top 4×4 And Off-Road Tech Questions Answered Here – I have a ’18 Ford F-350 diesel with a 2-inch front coil lift. It has Fox 2.0 shocks. The suspension business provided bumpstop blocks. I’m perplexed regarding why a moderate 2-inch lift with all coil and also no coil spacers would certainly also require bumpstop blocks. My wrench dutifully installed them, and they are getting kissed every day in normal driving. Do I need them or can I pull them?

Reno Ceferino Lamb
Via facebook.com/JohnCappa4x4

Bumpstops are a vital and also essential part of the suspension on a 4×4. Modifying or eliminating them without correct testing, assessment, and also suspension biking can cause tire damage as well as possibly permit steering, suspension, and drivetrain components to clash, which could lead to a costly fixing expense. Suspension business typically provide extensive bumpstops with a lift kit for several factors. Usually, a lift set is made to fit a certain tire size.

Jeep Wrangler Stock Tire Size

In this case, the bumpstop spacers are included to keep the weaken of the fenders when the suspension is completely compressed. Remember that the tires will certainly pack further into the fenders during expression off-road than they will under regular road use when the suspension bottoms out, such as when hitting a dip at speed. In various other cases, the prolonged bumpstops are made use of to maintain the longer aftermarket shocks from fully compressing. Commonly, a 2-inch lift will certainly utilize the stock-length shocks in the majority of applications.

If this is the case, the spacers would certainly not be required for anything greater than to maintain the weaken of the fenders. Nevertheless, if longer-than-stock shocks are made use of to raise suspension droop (downtravel), bumpstop spacers will likely be should maintain the shocks and also shock mounts. If you remove the bumpstop spacers, you might bad the shock bodies, which could damage the shock seals or other internals. Continued shock bottoming could trigger the shock installs to tear off of the axle or framework too.

Prior to removing the bumpstop expansions, inspect the shock shafts to see how much of the shock travel is being utilized throughout compression when the bumpstops make call. There ought to be a dust or light oil ring around the shock shaft. This is a great telltale sign of how far the shock presses. You could determine the size of the filthy shock shaft as well as contrast it to the height of the bumpstop expansions. If it looks as though there is plenty of shock shaft showing when the bumpstop makes contact, you could be able to eliminate the expansions.

You could also identify what does it cost? shock shaft is being used with a few plastic zip connections. Mount a zip connection around each shock shaft as well as push it towards the shock body near the seal. Take the truck for a spin where you think it’s bottoming out and after that inspect the area of the zip connection on each shock shaft. As the suspension presses, the zip tie will be pressed along the shock shaft by the shock body. If there suffices shock shaft readily available to remove the bumpstop expansions, you should excel to go. If a zip connection obtains smashed or is missing out on after your testdrive, the shocks are most likely bottoming as well as you’ll require longer bumpstops. Most of the times, you don’t desire the shocks to totally press prior to the bumpstops make call.


I’m considering a ’08 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited with 100,000 miles on it. It has a salvage title and also is selling for $11,000. If I go this course, I plan to exchange in an LQ4 GM V-8 and also a 4L60E automatic transmission. I ‘d likely upgrade the axleshafts and also make it a mild, daily driver-ish weekend break trail cruiser. The other alternative would certainly be to finance $30,000-$ 35,000 as well as purchase a nice more recent JK Unlimited Rubicon. I’m torn, so which path would you take?

Sean Yeo
Via facebook.com/JohnCappa4x4

Choosing one particular 4×4 over an additional is never ever a very easy job, as well as it’s absolutely for disagreement based upon individual choice. Power outcome seems at the very least somewhat vital to you. Considered that you would swap the anemic 3.8 L V-6 out of the ’08 JK Wrangler, I assume you would certainly like to have the 3.6 L V-6 located in the ’12-and-up JK. The 85 more horse power makes an engine swap much less required. Regrettably, I’m not a large follower of either of your options right here. I ‘d have a really tough time choosing the JK over the ’18 JL. The price of the restored ’11 JK in addition to all the modifications you have actually planned will certainly put you well into a substantial down payment on a new JL, otherwise pay it off entirely. The JL actually is a far better Wrangler.

The 3.6 L V-6 combined with eight-speed transmission is a real game changer. You ought to have the ability to conveniently preserve the stock axle gears with up to 35-inch tires. The 3.6 L as well as eight-speed automatic is just a far better mix than any kind of engine as well as transmission mix ever offered in the JK from the factory. If you want the lockers as well as various other Rubicon accouterments, you can enter into a brand-new base-model ’18 JL Unlimited Rubicon for about $41,000. Obviously this has to do with $6,000 greater than you intended to spend on a newer JK, however suppose you could enter a gently used JL Unlimited Rubicon? That must put you extremely close to the $35,000 max that you wished to invest. So my suggestions would certainly be to watch out for a used ’18 Jeep JL Unlimited Rubicon. You’ll wind up with a much better and more effective drivetrain combination, plus you’ll get every one of the renovations that the ’18 JL has more than the JK.


I really hope that you can aid aim me in the ideal instructions. I am switching a 6.4 L Hemi into a Variety Wanderer Standard as well as I’m struggling to find a wiring representation of any type. There isn’t much aftermarket support right here in Australia for the third-generation Hemi V-8.

Adrian Connor
Via facebook.com/JohnCappa4x4

Sadly, I have no idea of any type of easy-to-follow circuitry layouts that can aid you with your swap. Nevertheless, there are a number of companies that specialize in Hemi V-8 swaps that supply stand-alone plug-and-play wiring harnesses as well as computer systems. Business such as Hotwire Vehicle (hotwireauto.com), Red Rock Offroad and Performance (redrockwiring.com), and also TeraFlex (teraflex.com) supply the wiring harnesses and computers you should get your project running right.


I have a ’03 Ford F-150 that I wheel and love. It has 3-inch-lift spindles as well as 2-inch-lift coils. This combination penetrates the upper as well as reduced round joints at a quick rate. I’m sick of changing them every other month. Are there high-angle ball joints I could switch in or does anyone offer affordable high-angle top and lower control arms? I intended to install a long-travel suspension set yet I’m a broke college child that cannot pay for that right now. Thanks for any info you have.

Wesley Richards
Via facebook.com/JohnCappa4x4

The ball joints on an A-arm suspension need to last a fair bit longer than 2 months, also on raised applications. Stacking lift kits is usually not advised due to the fact that problems similar to this could emerge. However, in your instance, the lift pins should not alter the geometry of the sphere joints, which leads me to think that the issue is with the lift coils, bumpstop places, or you have excessively large or vast tires and wheels with hardly any wheel backspacing.

I believe that the early wear is being triggered by the sphere joints binding or you are making use of low-grade parts. Have you tried top quality Moog (moogparts.com) replacement components? If you have modified the manufacturing facility bumpstops for even more wheel traveling or any one of the bumpstops are curved or absent, the sphere joints may be binding at full suspension compression or droop. Longer-than-stock shocks can likewise be the wrongdoer in allowing the suspension cycle past the readily available angularity of the round joints.

An upper high-angle arm is usually required for proper suspension biking in an application such as your own. Business such as Camburg Engineering (camburg.com), Tuff Nation E-Z Flight Suspension (tuffcountry.com), and also others offer upper control arms with high-angle joints. New lower control arms with high-angle joints are generally not needed till you mount a long-travel suspension kit.


I require an intermediate shaft between my transmission and also separated NP200, right? I just drew the 351M out of my Kaiser M725 to make space for the 454, and whoever hacked that Ford stuff in there U-jointed the slip-yoke right to the NP200 input.

John Crandall
Via facebook.com/JohnCappa4x4

Working with a separated transfer case presents a couple of troubles that are not a problem with a married transfer case. Just like with the driveshafts in between the transfer instance and axles of a traditional 4×4, the U-joint angles of the driveshaft between the transmission as well as transfer situation need to be spot on or there will be substantial driveline vibration. Many people have actually fabricated transmission and also transfer case mounts that only use one U-joint between the transmission as well as divorced transfer case. I have actually also seen no slip joint in all with a single U-joint bolted to the two yokes. There are some right and wrong ways to do this if durability is an issue.

To make a single U-joint job successfully as well as accurately in this application, the transmission result shaft as well as the divorced transfer situation input need to be lined up completely. Any imbalance will certainly trigger premature wear of the transmission output bearing, slide joint, U-joint, as well as transfer situation input bearing. This is unbelievably difficult to do in the tight boundaries under a 4×4. It would seem straightforward sufficient in a regulated environment, yet the transmission as well as transfer instance are constantly relocating due to the fact that they are affixed to the versatile structure of a 4×4 on rubber or urethane installs.

The only genuine way to maintain them from relocating independently is to produce brackets that physically affix both parts. You’ll likely be better off suitable a driveshaft with 2 U-joints in between your transmission as well as divorced transfer situation. Eventually, an appropriate standard driveshaft in a divorced application will certainly provide you a lot more versatility for mounting techniques and also area of the engine, transmission, and also transfer situation.


I have a ’07 Chevy Silverado with a Fabtech 6-inch lift. I bought the truck in 2009 with the lift already installed. I just recently rebuilt the frontend including upper and lower ball joints, control arms, and also connect poles. The truck had different external connection poles from Fabtech because of the lift. When I took off the outer tie rods I observed that the inners had been cut. I downloaded and install the directions for the lift as well as did not see anywhere in the directions to reduce them. I do not have the best turning distance and I’m assuming that’s why. Would certainly you have any suggestion why a person reduced the inner tie poles and would that impact the transforming radius?

They appear to have about 1.5 inches removed of the threads. The truck drives great and also I have actually put over 130,000 miles on it considering that I’ve owned it. The truck was generated from out of state as well as I have no idea who did the lift to ask them. Thanks in advance for any information and also assistance on this.

Andy Troisi
Via email

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